Lady Victoria Eclectic Pagan's blog: "In The Garden"

Name & Family
English: Black Sapote, Black Persimmon, Chocolate-Fruit, Chocolate Pudding Fruit
Spanish: Zapote Negro
German: Schwarze Sapote
Scientifical: Diospyros digyna, Family: Ebenaceae
Same family: Kaki - Mabolo - Japanese Persimmon

 

Type
Tropical Fruit, 2 to 10 seeded.
Seeds: shining dark red-brown colored.
Many trees bear pitless fruit.
Mexican relative to the Chinese persimmon.

Description, Taste & storage
The Black Sapote is a Tomato-like fruit, 10 x 13 cm. large berry with a thin and firm rind. Its color is shining dark green with brown specs. The fruitflesh is rich, dark brown colored and custard like and is therefore called the Chocolate pudding fruit.
Complete ripe fruits are often ugly brown.
Black sapote's flesh is rich and custard-like, with a sweet, nut-like mild flavor and when ripe fruit pulp is blended with milk, cream or ice-cream, it tastes like mild chocolate - but without the caffeine or calories!

Tree
The black sapote is native in Mexico and Guatemala.
It is cultivated in Florida, The Philippines, the Dominican Republic, Cuba and Hawaii.
It is an evergreen tree and grows upto 8 meter or more. 

Use
Often icecream is made of Black Sapotes.
The raw fruit is eaten with a spoon or eaten as dessert in milk or citrus juice.
Many different drinks are made from it as well as liquor.
Unripe fruits are not edible.
Use them in dips or sliced for a healthy chocolate-like dessert.

Adapted from “The Neighborhood Forager,” by Robert K. Henderson (Chelsea Green Publishing, 2000). Of all the herb-to-weed stories, dandelion’s is by far the most dramatic. This remarkable herb was considered a necessity of life until recently. As a food, beverage stock, medicine, and dietary supplement, dandelion is unrivaled in the plant kingdom. Indeed, no other genus has stepped forward to fill the vacuum in the century and a half since dandelion’s fall. Thriving in all but the most extreme climates, with versatile reproductive capabilities that ensure survival, dandelion is everything humanity could wish for in a crop. From healer of the sick and feeder of the hungry, dandelion has been reduced to that blackest of suburban blackguards, an invader of lawns. Too bad. Its wine is known to taste like “distilled sunshine!” Here are some dandelion recipes to inspire you to save and savor your dandelions: Dandelion Appetizers A healing plate of either of these recipes, served with toothpicks or just eaten with the fingers, is a real crowd-pleaser. The blossom should be as fresh as possible, with all traces of the bitter, milk-oozing stem removed. (The green calyx is less problematic and holds the flower together.) Rinse the flowers just before cooking and shake off the excess water. Sautéed Dandelions (Makes about 2 dozen) 1 cup flour ¼ teaspoon black pepper ½ teaspoon each thyme, marjoram, sage, and paprika Salt to taste 24 dandelion blossoms 3 tablespoons oil Thoroughly blend the dry ingredients and spread the mixture on a dinner plate. Place the plate and the blossoms near the stove. Swirl the oil into a frying pan and heat over medium heat, until a pinch of flour sizzles and browns. Use a fork to roll five or six dandelion blossoms in the flour mixture. (They should be dewy from rinsing, but not wet.) Then drop them into the hot oil. Sauté lightly until golden, generally a minute or so. Turn the fried blossoms onto newspapers or paper towels and pop them into a warm oven. Repeat with the rest of the blossoms, replenishing the oil as necessary. Serve hot. Southwestern Style Dandelion Poppers (Makes about 2 dozen) ½ cup cornmeal ¼ cup flour 3 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese ¼ teaspoon each ground cayenne pepper and chili powder Salt to taste 1 egg, beaten 24 dandelion blossoms 3 tablespoons oil Lime juice Mix the dry ingredients thoroughly and spread the mixture on a dinner plate. Place the beaten egg in a shallow bowl, then place the egg, the plate with the cornmeal mixture, and the blossoms near the stove. Swirl the oil into a frying pan and heat over medium heat, until a pinch of flour sizzles and browns. Use a fork to roll five or six dandelion blossoms in the egg, then in the cornmeal mixture, and drop them into the hot oil. Fry the blossoms until crisp and golden, generally a minute or so. Turn the fried blossoms onto newspapers or paper towels and pop them into a warm oven. Repeat with the rest of the blossoms, replenishing the oil as necessary. Sprinkle lime juice over the fried blossoms and serve hot.

Weeds Simply expressed, a weed is any plant that grows where it isn’t wanted. Weeds are defined by their tendency to flourish at the expense of a gardener’s overall vision, and we tend to battle their presence in our yards. It is interesting to consider, though, that a plant is a weed only within a certain context, which is to say that one person’s weed is another person’s wildflower. Most of us have pulled at least one dandelion up by its roots and disposed of it in the interest of preserving the look of a perfect green lawn, yet the dandelion is good medicine, packed with healing properties and vitamin-rich leaves that are a delicious, spicy surprise in a summer salad. In the wild, there is no such thing as a weed because the overall vision is in the hands of Mother Nature, who accommodates and incorporates all forms of life. In nature, balance is achieved over the long term, without the aid, or interference, of a human supervisor. While one plant may prevail over others for a certain period of time, eventually it will reach an apex and then it will naturally decline, allowing for other forms to be born and survive. This self-regulating realm was the first garden of our ancestors, who learned the art of agriculture from studying the forests and fields of the as yet uncultivated earth. In a sense, weeds are harbingers of this wildness, pushing their way into our well-ordered plots, undermining more delicate flora, and flourishing in spite of us. The next time you see a weed, you might want to look deeply into its roots, discover its name, its habits, and its possible uses. Instead of seeing an unwanted intruder, you might see a healer offering its leaves for a medicinal tea or its flowers for a colorful salad. At the very least, if you look long enough, you will see a messenger from the wilderness of Mother Earth, reminding you that, even in the most carefully controlled garden, she cannot be completely ruled out.

And yet - each different color of rose has its own special message. -Red roses mean true love. According to Greek mythology, when Aphrodite, the goddess of love, rushed to the aid of her beloved Adonis, she scratched herself on the thorn of a white rose. The rose stained the rose red, and it has signified romantic love since that time. -White roses mean respect. White represents purity and innocence. Folklore has it that all roses were white until they were stained with color. -Pink roses mean appreciation. Pink represents platonic love. The light pink indicates gentleness and elegance, and the darker shades signify gratitude. -Orange roses mean passion. Orange unites the joy of yellow with the romance of red, which, like fire, signifies burning desire. -Yellow roses mean friendship. Like sunshine, yellow is cheerful and warm, it brings joy and happiness. -Lavender means new beginnings. This could be the new start of a romantic relationship. They also signify that the recipient is rare, and special. -Red-and-white roses mean unification. This is called the Tudor Rose, and it was created by Henry VII, who ended the conflict between the Yorks (whose symbol was the white rose) and the Lancasters (whose symbol was the red rose). This combination colored rose symbolically joins the two colors, and families, together.

Our favorite flower may hold secrets about the ways we connect to our spirituality. In this time of blooming, take a walk through our beautiful garden to find out what your favorite flower says about your spirit, then read our suggestions for practices you might like to try. Which of the following flowers is your favorite? If yours isn’t on the list, pick the one that comes closest. Daisy: This sunny, optimistic type loves to connect with her spirit through service, especially in nature. Take nature walks, or participate in clean-ups in parks or other places you treasure. You will probably prefer the unpretentious simplicity of a Friends meeting to anything elaborate. Gardenia: Exotic, sensual, and mysterious, this type is often attracted to esoteric Asian practices. Try reading a book on Tantric sexuality, or create a sanctuary for your spirit with brocaded hangings, mirrored cushions, lush flowers, and incense. Iris: The iris is often the favorite flower of many body-workers and other healers. Explore deep meditation, sound healing, or the power of serene images of nature. You may also enjoy expressing your spirit with chanting or yoga. Calla Lily: This flower embodies grace, dignity, and a Goddess-like presence. You may be drawn to the power and beauty of ritual, and to practices inspired by the ancient Goddesses. Poppy: This unconventional type may love ecstatic trance dance as an expression of her vibrant spirit. Poppy types are often conduits for spirit when they perform or create, so you might want to explore venues for your creative gifts. Sign up for a workshop! Rose: Rose-lovers express their spirits through acts of love and friendship for others. They may be drawn to the comfort of traditional services, and the beauty and grace of old hymns or other devotional music. Violet: The violet type is deeply sensitive and empathic. She will show her devotion in private and uniquely personal practices. A violet person might want to try a daily reading of inspirational quotes, or may find herself attracted to the writings of the mystics. She may want to express her own spiritual insights in poems or other written pieces, as well.

Who says herbs have to be just plain green? Many herbs can hold their own in any flower garden with bright blooms and beautiful foliage. As an added bonus, you can harvest your handsome herbs for cooking or crafts, so they're practical as well as pretty. Many of these attract beneficial insects, too. A flowering herbal border is a great compromise for gardeners with limited space because it does double-duty as an herb garden and a perennial border. The herbs described below are some of the most beautiful and easy plants you can grow for flowers and foliage. The colors are mostly in the pink, lavender and blue range, with silver, bronze or green leaves. White and yellow blooms add splashes of color off and on through the growing season. Anise hyssop Agastache foeniculum This perennial herb grows in bushy clumps, with upright branching stems topped with spikes of lavender-blue flowers in mid to late summer. The flowers attract pollinating bees and other beneficial insects to your garden. Both the leaves and the flowers are fragrant when fresh or dried, so they're a great addition to potpourri. It will self-sow (or grow in new places from seed it drops), so pinch off most of the flowerheads before the small, black seeds mature and drop. Plants grow to 3 feet tall. Zones 4 to 9. Bee balm Monarda didyma The summer flowers of this spreading herb are usually red, but you can also find cultivars with pink, purple or white blooms. 'Marshall's Delight' is a good pink variety that resists powdery mildew, a fungal disease that causes gray patches on the leaves. In mid to late spring, pinch out up to half of the stems at ground level to thin out crowded clumps. Plants grow to 3 feet tall. Zones 4 to 9. Chives Allium schoenoprasum In June, this perennial herb produces pretty pink or lavender flowers that you can add to salads for both color and flavor. The clumps of thin, grasslike green leaves are attractive all season and they have a mild onion flavor. Clumps reach 12 to 14 inches tall in bloom, then arch over gracefully. Zones 3 to 9. Feverfew Tanacetum parthenium Feverfew may look delicate, but it's a sturdy, easy-to-grow herb that blooms from early summer to early fall. The white-petaled, yellow-centered flowers look like tiny daisies. Pinching off the spent flowers can extend the bloom season, and it will reduce the number of self-sown seedlings. You can also cut the whole plant to the ground after bloom for a flush of new growth. Plants grow about 2 feet tall. Zones 4 to 9. Joe-Pye weed Eupatorium purpureum Tall Joe-Pye is the glory of the late summer garden. Its domed clusters of rosy pink to light purple flowers tower over shorter herbs, with sturdy stalks in multistemmed clumps. The flowers attract butterflies as well as lots of attention from garden visitors. 'Atropurpureum' also offers deep purple stems. 'Album' has white flowers. Plants are slow to emerge in spring, so place markers by the clumps. Stems reach 6 to 8 feet tall in bloom. Zones 3 to 8. Lavender Lavandula angustifolia Lavender is as pretty to look at as it is heavenly to smell, and it keeps its distinctive fragrance when dried. In midsummer, English lavender produces spikes of purple-blue flowers on slender stalks over shrubby clumps of narrow, silvery leaves. 'Munstead' and 'Hidcote' are more compact, growing only 12 to 18 inches tall, with dark purple flowers. Lavender is a good choice for the front of the border—it must have good drainage to stay healthy. Zones 5 to 8. Marsh mallow Althaea officinalis Marsh mallow is a beautiful herb that produces attractive pink or white, hollyhock-like flowers for most of the summer. The broad, oval to heart-shaped, gray-green leaves are velvety soft. Plants grow 3 to 4 feet tall. Zones 3 to 8. Meadowsweet Filipendula ulmaria Also known as queen-of-the-meadow, this graceful perennial herb produces frothy clusters of creamy white flowers in mid to late summer. The large, dark green leaves grow in creeping clumps; divide plants every two to three years to control their spread. Plants can reach 3 to 4 feet tall in bloom, although they may be shorter if the soil is dry. Zones 3 to 9. Purple coneflower Echinacea purpurea Purple coneflower produces clumps of sturdy stems topped with large, rosy pink, daisylike flowers that have raised, orange-brown centers. Plants bloom from midsummer into fall, especially if you snip off the dead flowers in summer. The blooms of 'Crimson Star' are particularly deep rose-pink. You may also find cultivars with white flowers, such as 'White Swan'. Plants grow 3 to 4 feet tall. Zones 3 to 9. Rue Ruta graveolens Even if it didn't bloom, rue would be worth growing for its foliage alone. The bright blue-green leaves are deeply divided, giving the whole plant a delicate, lacy look. In midsummer, the clumps are accented with clusters of bright yellow-green flowers. Good drainage is essential for healthy growth. Plants grow 2 feet tall. Zones 5 to 9. Sage Salvia officinalis Common culinary sage grows in shrubby clumps, with oblong, gray-green leaves accented by spikes of purple-blue flowers in mid to late summer. 'Berggarten' has broader, more silvery leaves. If you'd like extra color, try planting 'Purpurea', with purple-green leaves; 'Icterina', with gold-banded green leaves; or 'Tricolor', with green leaves that are splashed with cream, pink, and purple. You can also find cultivars with white or pink flowers. Plants grow 1 to 2 feet tall. Zones 4 to 9. Yarrow Achillea millefolium Common yarrow produces flattened clusters of red, pink or white flowers on slender stems clad in feathery green foliage. These summer flowers are great for fresh or dried arrangements. If you prefer yellow flowers, you could substitute another species or hybrid. Plants are usually around 2 feet tall. Zones 3 to 8.

You can grow herbs indoors in the winter and add that just-picked taste to your meals, even when snow is drifting up against the kitchen window. You don't even need special lights—herbs fare just fine in a bright window. Here are the best herbs for growing on windowsills and the smart techniques you need to keep them happy and healthy until you can plant outside again. Basil: Start basil from seeds and place the pots in a south-facing window—it likes lots of sun and warmth. Bay: A perennial that grows well in containers all year long. Place the pot in an east, or west, facing window, but be sure it does not get crowded—bay needs air circulation to remain healthy. Chervil: Start chervil seeds in late summer. It grows well in low light but needs 65 to 70 degrees F temperatures to thrive. Chives: Dig up a clump from your garden at the end of the growing season and pot it up. Leave the pot outside until the leaves die back. In early winter, move the pot to your coolest indoor spot (such as a basement) for a few days, then finally to your brightest window. Oregano: Your best bet is to start with a tip cutting from an outdoor plant. Place the pot in a south-facing window. Parsley: You can start this herb from seeds or dig up a clump from your garden at the end of the season. Parsley likes full sun, but will grow slowly in an east, or west, facing window. Rosemary: Start with a cutting of rosemary, and keep it in moist soilless mix until it roots. It grows best in a south-facing window. Sage: Take a tip cutting from an outdoor plant to start an indoor sage. It tolerates dry, indoor air well, but it needs the strong sun it will get in a south-facing window. Tarragon: A dormant period in late fall or early winter is essential for tarragon to grow indoors. Pot up a mature plant from your outdoor garden and leave it outside until the leaves die back. Bring it to your coolest indoor spot for a few days, then place it in a south-facing window for as much sun as possible. Feed well with an organic liquid fertilizer. Thyme: You can start thyme indoors either by rooting a soft tip cutting or by digging up and potting an outdoor plant. Thyme likes full sun but will grow in an east, or west, facing window. Rooting a cutting Many herbs—including oregano, thyme, rosemary, and sage—are best propagated for indoor growing by taking a cutting from an existing outdoor plant. To do it, snip off a 4-inch section, measured back from the tip. Strip off the lower leaves and stick the stem into moist, soilless mix, such as perlite and/or vermiculite. To ensure good humidity, cover with glass or clear plastic, and keep the growing medium-moist. Transition to indoors Before the first fall frost (while the weather is still on the mild side), start moving your potted herb plants toward their winter home. Instead of bringing them directly inside, put them in a bright, cool "transitional zone," such as a garage, entryway, or enclosed porch, for a few weeks. Once they've acclimated, move them to an area with lots of sun (south-facing windows are brightest, followed by east or west views). But protect them from heat and dryness. Most herbs prefer daytime temperatures of about 65 to 70 degrees F, although they can withstand climbs into the 70s. It's especially important that night temperatures drop at least 10 degrees—down into the 50s would be better—to simulate outdoor conditions. With the exception of basil, they'll even do well with occasional dips into the 40s. (So turn that thermostat down when you go to bed.) Place them outside on mild days, and give them regular baths to wash off dust. Water, light, and temperature Most herbs like to be well watered but don't like wet feet. That's why good drainage is important. Water when the top of the container feels dry, or learn to judge the moisture in the soil by the weight of the pot. Add sand or vermiculite to the potting soil to ensure good drainage. Learn to juggle water, light, and temperature. An herb in a clay pot in a south-facing window will need more water than one in a plastic pot in an east, or west, facing window. If the light is low, keep the temperature low. Pest prevention Choose the soil for your indoor herbs carefully. A good commercial potting soil is fine, or for a deluxe mix, blend one part potting soil with one part compost and one part vermiculite, perlite, or sand (or a mixture of all three). Resist the temptation to use disease- and pest-prone garden soil. And when you pot up garden-grown plants, remove as much of the garden soil as possible without damaging the roots. Keep such transplants separate from your other houseplants while you're gradually acclimating them to the indoors. If you see insects on a plant during this "quarantine," leave it outside. If, despite such defenses, your indoor plants do come under insect attack, help the herbs stay healthy by providing the correct mix of light and temperature, and give them regular baths. A plant weakened by hot, dry indoor conditions is even more susceptible to spider mite, whitefly, or aphid damage than a healthy one. If you choose to use soap sprays to control these pests, remember that the wet spray must come in contact with the insect to be effective. Spray in the evening (and never in bright sunlight) to prevent rapid drying, and wash off residues the next day (or before eating the leaves). Don't spray very young seedlings with soap! Hold back on the water and fertilizer through December, but when the days start getting longer in mid-January, feed them with liquid seaweed or compost. Even potted soil gets compacted as you water it, so cultivate it with a little fork, then top-dress it with compost. February is usually a great month for indoor plants because of all the bright light. By March, they are starting to get buds, and in April, be sure to put them outside on a warm day. Then it won't be long before the herbs—and you—are ready to move back to the garden.