Wax Play can be one of the most tantalizing types of play on the skin that can produce marvelous, stimulating pleasures. But it can also be the cause for an extreme burn if applied improperly. Because of the dangers that are inherent to burning temperatures, some may categorize wax play as “edge play”. By learning basic knowledge and techniques will enable you to safely play with wax. Remember, safety must always be the primary focus when dealing with unpredictable mediums, such as hot wax.
Wax play can be given and enjoyed by both Tops and bottoms. There are 7 areas that I will cover and do my best to explain without totally boring you. One of the major problems I encountered while doing research for this paper is the amount of wrong or outdated information that is available on the Internet. Please use more than one resource when relying on information on any subject you wish to learn more about.
1) Preparation
2) Wax Types
3) Colors, Scents, Additives and Residues
4) Types of Candles
5) Applications
6) Removal & Clean up
7) Safety
1. PREPARATION - There are a few things that you should prepare before any wax play begins.
Area: You need a drop cloth to place under the area you intend to play. This could be a tarp or painters cloth. You will also need a stable table to place all your supplies, equipment, and accessories. Make sure you have cleared the area of all unnecessary items that may get in the way or may be combustible. Wax play can be very messy, so also place a layer of plastic or tarp on your table. Wear washable clothes.
Equipment: Have all your equipment out and prepared for use. These may include: candles, wax/fondue pot, matches or long lighter, mineral/baby oil, paint brushes, ladle, thermometer, knife, plastic scraper, scrubbie, flea comb, drip plate, paper towels, rags, ice, and wet towel, trash can, and proper environment.
Play-ee: Prepare your victim/bottom. The body should be clean. If they are hairy, shaving the areas is a good idea. Do not use a gel or mousse in the pubic hair area, and do not use body sprays … these tend to contain alcohol. Rub a small amount of mineral/baby oil or lotion on body for easy wax removal, especially if hairy. Sometimes this will cause the wax to run on the body during application. Allow your bottom time to relax, set the mood, play some soothing music, take away distractions.
2. WAX TYPES – Know what types of wax are safe to play with and available.
Paraffin – most common, inexpensive, various scents, burns at low temperatures (115°F - 145°F) and therefore recommended best for wax play. This wax is refined from petroleum and comes from the Latin “parum” = few or without and “affinis” = connection or attraction. Basically there are only a few substances that will chemically react with or bind to this type of wax.
Soy – becoming popular, more expensive, various scents, burns clean at a low temperature (120°F - 150°F) and therefore recommended for wax play. Refined from the soybean (legume) plant but caution should be used because many people are allergic to soy products. Always ask your bottom beforehand of any allergies they have.
Beeswax – less common, usually found in rolled candles, expensive, honey scented, burns clean (smokeless) at a very high temperature (142°F - 150°F) and therefore not recommended for wax play. Refined from the honeycombs of beehives.
Bayberry – the rarest and most expensive, popular around the holidays, available in 8” taper candles, earthy fragrance, and dries to an olive green color. This wax is 100% pure and natural and it takes about 15 pounds of bayberries to make just one pound of this wax. It is also known as “myrtle wax”. Although it has an extremely low melt point of 116°F, it is an excessively hard wax.
3. COLORS, SCENTS, ADDITIVES and RESIDUES – Many additives will have various effects on wax.
Colors – Two different processes are used to color Wax. One is a dye, which dissolves and mixes with the oil in the wax. The other is a pigment, a fine powder that does not dissolve. Regardless of the color of wax, the wick will “pump” the same amount of fuel into the flame of the candle. Therefore, neither Dye nor Pigment affects the amount of time the candle will burn. Dye colored candles hold a slightly higher temperature of only 1°- 3° and is not a problem for use in wax play. Because pigment color, especially black carbon, can separate once melted, it will also affect the temperature of the melted wax by 3°or 4°. Warning: the pigment itself can hold much higher temperatures once separated and can cause burns. Unless you buy your candles direct from a manufacturer or make your own, you do not know if pigment was used. Therefore, it makes good practice to use pure paraffin as the first coating on the skin. One problem with pigments and heavy oils in candles is that the fine powder can get stuck in the fibers of the cotton wick and clog it up. Once this happens, the wick cannot carry as much liquid wax up to fuel the flame. With less fuel delivered, less flame (smaller and dimmer) will be produced. In some cases the oil clogs the wick so much that after a while the candle ceases to burn at all. An easy way to add color to plain wax is to add a crayola crayon to the wax pot. One small caution is there is a chance that the dye color may permeate the skin and stain it.
Scents – Fabulous fragrance oils are added to give a scent to a candle. Scents added to wax will only have a temperature burn difference of 1°- 2° and is not considered to significantly affect application techniques. Usually 1.5 ounces of scent is added to 1 pound of wax. Strongly scented candles that give off excessive fragrance before it is ever burned, is not likely to keep its scent very long after you get it home from the store. For best storage, wrap the candles in paper and store them a cool, dry place. If candles are stored in the freezer, the wax will be too cold and not burn as well and may even “smoke” until it warms to room temperature. Be aware that some people are allergic or sensitive to certain fragrances with symptoms ranging from headaches to topical reactions to worse; so ask ahead of time to prevent mishaps.
Additives – Numerous elements can be mixed into wax besides dyes and scents. Some are: hardeners, metallic flakes (for sparkling affects), and mineral oil.
Hardeners, such as stearic acids, vybar, and paraflint can affect: the temperature melt points, transparency, color fade, and pliability used in different types of candles.
Metal flakes and paint will hold very high temperatures and are not recommended for use with wax play unless precautions are taken and you have experience.
Mineral oil, or otherwise known as baby oil, is frequently added to aid in drippy-ness, temperature melt points, and removal ease. The greater amount of oil, the lower the melt point becomes. A mixture of about 1/3 oil to 2/3 paraffin wax is recommended. Because adding oil lowers the adhesiveness of the wax to the skin, it will also increase the ability to release the wax off the skin. One draw back to adding oil can be the difference of the sensation of the “peel” effect. There is a wonderful feel when the wax is removed off the sensitized skin and by adding oil, reduces the effect of peeling and more of lifting off the skin. This can be noticed by the lovely moans from your bottom.
Residues – Any burning will produce various residue substances through chemical reactions. Hydrocarbon is released through the flame of the candle and considered as insignificant as the amount of carbon dioxide we exhale from our own breathing in about an hour. A smoking candle, in most cases, is not caused by the formulation of the wax, but rather improper care of the wick. The wick must be kept trimmed to ¼ of an inch or the wick will be burned up instead of the wax. Smoke may also be produced if you are burning in a drafty area. If smoking and “sooting” are caused by the formulation of the wax, it is usually because too much scent or oil was mixed in the wax.
4. CANDLES – There are many forms and types of candles.
Candles come in Tapers, Pillars, Votives, Tealights, Containers and wax pots.
There are only two types of candles: drippy and dripless (usually found in tapers).
Taper – usually hand-dipped with additives added for hardness. These can be as small as Chanukkah/menorah & birthday candles (3”) and can go as large as long formal table candles (12”). They are tapered at the top and wider at the bottom allowing for even burning. Because the wax is coming directly from the flame, no pooling is allowed to form (cooling), thus producing the highest temperature of all the candles; therefore extreme care should be taken when using them. The melt point can be 140°F and higher depending on the wax used: paraffin, beeswax, or bayberry wax.
Pillar – these columns are usually poured into molds and can have various colors and scents added to them. They can take any shape and size but always form in an equal diameter. Melted wax is allowed to pool in the surrounding area of the wick, allowing cooling of the wax. Nearest to the wick can be a temperature as high as 250°F as it is drawn up into the wick for fuel. As wax moves away from the flame (about 1¼”), it pools and the radiant temperature cools to about 140°F. From 1¼” to 1½” away from the flame, the wax can cool to 127°F. Moving more than 1½” away from the flame, the wax cools to ambient room temperature. Dark spots around the top of a candle usually stem from pigment used instead of a dye to color the wax. A common problem found is the hot area around the wick starts to sink and the outer rim of wax never gets hot enough to melt causing a tunnel effect. To prevent this from happening, while the candle is still warm after extinguishing, push and turn in the sides using your fingers/thumb to get the outer wax closer to the center, bring down the column of wax.
A pure white paraffin wax pillar candle can be found using: plumber’s candles, emergency candles and Sabbath (Jewish) candles.
Votives – poured into molds and can be any shape, but size is usually limited to allow it to be placed in votive glass containers or allowed to float in water. Usually paraffin wax is used and is available in many colors and scents. This can vary the melting point from 128°F to 134°F. The ease of use makes this the most popular.
Tealights – poured into thin metal cups using paraffin wax. Pooling does not occur and therefore the temperature can be 136°F or higher. Better used as ambiance to a room rather than for wax play.
Container – poured paraffin wax in glass holders. Usually they are found in tall, cylinder type containers and allow for pooling. You can use religious Hispanic candles found at markets available in various colors. Common problem is sinking of center area. Push in the sides of wax with a knife while it is still warm.
Wax Bath (Thermabath)– an electrical vat or fondue pot containing paraffin wax. One can dip their hands or feet in the larger vats. A ladle can be used to collect the wax and pour it on the body. Use only vats that have a temperature thermostat, which can be regulated. You can create your own mixture of wax by using additives, such as oil or scent to your desire. Stir the wax often. Turn the heat up high to initially melt the wax. Then turn it down and allow a skim coat to form on the top. Stir the bath of wax and adjust thermostat for the correct temperature setting.
Dripless Candles – this usually applies to formal taper candlesticks 1½” in diameter and smaller. During the dipping process, a special harder outer layer of wax is applied, which makes a “cup” that holds the melted wax. This prevents the liquid wax to run down the candle sides. These candles are not recommended for wax play because of the high heat content.
Drippy Candles – additives are combined with the wax to allow the wax to soften quickly and drip. These are the candles used in typical (Chianti) wine bottles to create a romantic effect with wax melting over the bottle surface. They were common almost everywhere, but now are difficult to find and available mostly through the Internet. They have a low melting point and are wonderful for wax play. Available in many colors.
5. APPLICATION – Here is the fun part. There are many ways to apply the wax onto the body that depends on the type of candles used. Safe temperatures to use when applying wax are 110°F - 139°F depending upon preparation within the scene. Less sensitive areas are the back and chest. Proper area lighting is important to be able to see the amount of wax you are distributing. Do not be in a rush to perform wax play … what you put on must be taken off. The sensitivity that wax produces on the skin is unlike anything else and can send your bottom flying. Once the wax is removed, the skin is ultra stimulated and the slightest touch will have him/her squirming.
If you are going to use different types of candles, it is best to have a layer of pure paraffin on the skin first as a barrier layer. This will diffuse the heat over a larger area. Give time between drops to allow that wax to cool and the bottom to react to the sensations. Placing a wax drop on top of another drop creates a penetrating deep heat and requires a longer cooling period, so take your time. Apply a steady series of drops and spread the drops out around the entire area. Rotate candles around while dripping so they burn evenly. Be creative and have fun by applying various layers of color & designs. Let your bottom be your canvas, the candles the pallet, and you the artist.
Pillar candles’ pool of wax is what is useful for wax play and should be allowed to regenerate as often as needed. To apply, hold the lit candle directly over the body and tilt it to drip the pooled wax while moving it over the body. Wait for the sweet exhaling sigh.
Taper candles require much more care while using because they burn at a much higher temperature. The old school thought is to adjust the height of the drop by raising your arm & varying the distance. This allows the drop of wax to cool as it falls downward hitting your target. Latest tests show that the degree of cooling is so negligible that this method is not needed. Besides, dripping wax from those distances causes splashing of wax everywhere; getting onto clothes, hair, face, shoes and surrounding areas. Skip all the mess, build your protective barrier layer of wax first and then have fun sending your bottom into ecstasy. Chanukkah candles are lovely stuck into the layer, lit and enjoyed. Beware of birthday candles that have a band of metal wrapped around its twist – ouch!
Votives can be placed directly on your subject if a thick layer of wax is applied beforehand to help insulate the skin from the higher temperatures. Warning: Peel label off bottom of candle first and melt bottom to assure a sturdy placement. As the votive wax melts, the spilling will add to the bottom’s sensation with each breath they take. This may remind the bottom to stay still during this fun play, or not. Imagine your canvas topped with colored votives slowly spilling wax down the sides of body, chest, and waist. It’s an enchanting sight not to be missed. Votives can also be placed in glass containers and allowed to pool and then be poured on the body for a heavenly warm sensation.
Container application is accomplished by tilting the holder enough that the wax pours out of the top. Try not to allow the flame to touch the opposite side of glass, which will produce soot on that area. If this happens, just wipe with towel after is cools. It is important to allow time for the wax to pool, therefore it is recommended to have numerous container candles. The flame most likely will burn out numerous times if not allowed to melt the wax surrounding it sufficiently, therefore a long gas lighter is required to reach the wick if the amount of wax has burned down. I find if I allow the religious candle containers to burn at least an hour with each use, the heat conducted will properly melt the wax and you will have a good pool of wax (sometimes 1” in depth) to use.
A way to prevent wax from sticking onto the bottom of your glass container, place a few drops of water, and a drop of dish soap into the bottom of the glass holder before putting a votive candle into it. To remove wax from a glass votive, place the holder in the refrigerator for a couple of hours and with the help of a dull knife, the wax should pop out.
Wax Bath/Vat application is accomplished by using a paintbrush, a ladle, or even your hands. The paintbrush bristles rubbing over the skin gives a delightful sensation. Have a drip plate available to catch extra wax dripping off the brush. The ladle allows for more flow of wax. For a full hands on play, use your own hands, cupped, to scoop up the wax and spread it onto the skin of your partner. Having your hands sensually exploring, pinching, and rubbing, may just allow for other types of enjoyment. Be ready for a mess, but the extraordinary sensations will send your bottom shrieking in pleasure. This layer application will be your most important base coat of protection to then move on to other wax types and creativity.
6. REMOVAL & CLEAN UP – What goes on must come off.
Removal - Using a wet ice cube to chill the wax on the skin is an easy way to remove wax. It is also a nice double sensation of mediums. To peel the wax off, use a knife, scraper, or a fine edge to loosen the edges and then grab it with your fingers and gently pull the wax over itself. Knife play is a wonderful mix with wax play. Removing wax with a knife brings new meaning to the “hold still” whispered in the ear. It can be tricky running a very sharp knife blade over the curves and bumps of the body. Unlike regular knife play where usually the tip of the blade is used, you need to use a wider portion of the sharp edge against the skin. It is best to tilt the blade at an angle while scraping it over the skin. Also, hold more of the blade in your hand rather than just the handle to provide better control. Depending on your skills with knives, you can just as easily use a plastic knife or a butter knife that has a dull edge. Hint: You can chill the knife beforehand, but make sure you wet the knife in water first.
A plastic scraper is useful to get the small areas of wax left over on the skin. The scrubbie will also get off the small bits of wax remaining by gently rubbing it over the skin. To get wax out of hair, use a flea comb. It is not a good idea to use a leather flogger or whip to remove wax – it gets everywhere and also on your expensive toy. Besides, you just gave a pleasurable, relaxing, sensual, erotic, and luxurious play scene. Leave the stingy ouchies for another time.
Clean up is easy if you used plastic to cover any area beforehand. This process is rather time consuming though because of the mess and various accessories. Do not re-use any wax you have taken off of skin. It is contaminated with skin flakes, oils, and dirt.
If wax got on your clothing, boil them in a large pot to release the wax from the fabric.
Any wax left in your hair will easily come off by showering with a conditioner.
7. SAFETY – Always use a wax or candy thermometer to regulate the temperature when using a wax bath or vat. Have a wet cloth on hand to cool any hot spots. Use a sturdy table to set up all your equipment. Because you are dealing with a live flame, have a fire extinguisher close by. Have towels readily available to wipe your hands off when they become slippery. Stay away from gel and animal fat candles. Be aware that candles made outside of the US may have ingredients that can be toxic and dangerous. Always ask your bottom of any allergies they are aware of that might affect your play. Rubbing lotion or cream (that does not contain alcohol) on the now delightfully sensitive area that you just removed wax, is a wonderful way to end the scene – touching, caressing, and massaging. Do not disregard the aftercare that may be required to help your bottom recover and transition to a self-sustaining state.
