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Perfect, just perfect, the wave ahead of me is just perfect. I’m lying on my board out at the point where the water breaks just so, it’s my favorite spot, and this is a perfect wave. It rolls across the ocean as though it was sent straight from hell itself. A personal “fuck you” from the devil just for me. I blow hell a kiss and rise up to my knees. I can see its fury its malice, and I resolve myself that this one I take to the sand.
The closer it gets the faster my heart beats, pounding at my chest as though it wants to run from whatever this wave might bring. But I steel myself as I rise onto my feet. Yes you big beautiful bitch come get me! My mind screams, but my hands tremble and my mouth is dry.
Now its close, a roaring wall of water wanting to send me back to the sea. I lean on to my back foot as it comes along side me. The world stops, and waits as me and this beast become one. I ride the nose of my board running along the wave. I’m just in front of the break, it roars as it tries to take me down. I laugh out loud as I cut high and relish the spraying water my board sends into the air. I cut back down again, I scream with pure euphoria as I take it in. People on the shore stare; I don’t care, not now. I see the sands growing in the corner of my eye; I don’t want it to end but I know it has to.
I lean in just a bit I go to set my feet, but my board is not there. My feet find water and next I surrounded by it, for a moment I’m still surfing, still riding the wave. Then I see the sun above me it light filtering down through the ocean, and I’m back. With a few kicks I’m at the surface, and gasp as the sun warms my face, I have sea water in my eyes and my soaking hair has come out of its bun. But I watch it break on the sands, I trend water for a moment before looking for my board.
Next time you’re all mine…
