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Corseting

Corsetry - Shaping the waist --> --> --> --> --> #EndEditable --> --> --> The shaping of the waist, through belting, corseting, girdling or hiding its natural curve, has long held universal interest. What is considered an acceptable shape for the torso is intimately tied up with cultural aesthetics, discipline and social status. Tight-lacing is defined as the conscious and visible process of artificial constriction of the waist. The act of tight lacing is as important as the end result. The binding and loosening of belts and corsets often have the ritual significance of the release or suppression of sexuality associated with them. The state of being tightly corseted is felt by some to be a form of erotic tension which demands erotic release. Both men and women are taking up the discipline of tight-lacing. The process may take up to six months to reach one's goal size, as it requires constant wearing of the corset and the gradual rearrangement of internal organs and body fat. Mr Pearl has trained his waist to reach a circumference of 42.5 centimetres. In the 1950s Ethel Granger, with the active support of her husband, tight-laced down to a 13-inch (about 33 centimetres) waist. The familiar image of the Victorian corset with laces and whalebone has its origins in the European Middle Ages. This kind of garment, worn on the outside of the clothing rather than as an undergarment, remained in use until about the 18th century. The corset included the busk, the wooden central piece of stiffening (which kept the front of the corset rigid), and flexible whalebone stiffening all the way around the garment. Up until the late 19th century, both men and women regularly wore variations of this corset. Army officers wore corsets and tightly tailored uniforms to emphasise their straight backs and rigid discipline. Photos: C Bento and P Ovenden © Australian Museum Photos: C Bento and P Ovenden © Australian Museum Why, Madam, do you know there are upwards of 30 yards of bowel squeezed underneath that girdle of your daughter's? Go home and cut it; let Nature have fair play and you will have no need of my advice. John Abernethy, English Surgeon (1764 - 1831) The corset is one of the most comforting things to wear. It holds you so tight, it's like a really firm hug. It's an aggressive, hard femininity, an armour. I like the extremity of what a corset can do - you can make the most ridiculous shape out of your body. I see my body as a work in progress. I like to see what I can do to it, to temper it. Felina, 28 I like to subvert expectations and the feminine ideal. By putting on these things which are traditionally considered restricting and then recontextualising them from a position of power, I feel like I am making a point about women's bodies and power. Besides, corsetry gives me great posture. Anne Dunn, Consultant, 27

Foot Binding

Footbinding --> --> Photo © Golden Dragon Museum, Bendigo Chinese folklore attributes the origins of footbinding to a fox who tried to conceal its paws while assuming the human guise of the Shang Empress. Another version suggests that the Empress had a club foot and insisted that all women bind their feet so that hers became the model for beauty in the court. Footbinding began in China during the Song dynasty (10th century) and continued until the end of the Qing dynasty. The practice was formally prohibited in China in 1911 but continued in isolated regions well into the 1930s. In 1998, the last factory to manufacture shoes for women with bound feet (in Harbin, China) ended production. Mothers bound the feet of their daughters at around 5 years of age and gradually decreased the size of the child's foot over a period of months. The feet were called lotus of gold if they were 3 inches (about 7.5 centimetres) long, silver if they were 4 inches (about 10 centimetres) long or iron if they were more than 4 inches long. Feet became the object of devotion and, eventually, so did shoes. Women made their own shoes and even wore them in bed. The colour of the shoes was important. Red was the most popular colour. Some men, such as actors or male prostitutes, also bound their feet. I was born in 1920. My home was located in a small village in Shandong Province, China. My father was a poor peasant. He had three older sisters and one younger brother. Carrying on the custom from the older generations, my feet were bound when I was six years old. Perhaps a six-year-old girl's feet were the perfect length for binding. My grandmother took about one metre of white cloth which was woven by herself at home and divided it into three long one-metre strips, then the binding started. She left my big toe, and folded down the rest of the toes under the sole of the foot and then used the strips to tie it in many layers... You can imagine, a six-year-old girl's feet and how delicate they were, but if they were tied very tightly and changed the natural shape, how painful it must be... With the pain of the feet, I was forced to push around a big rock used as a mill for grinding. I walked and walked, step by step, many, many circuits in order to form the binding cone shape and to make the process more efficient. The suffering is really beyond people's imagination. A few years later, the Revolutionary Party broke into the unenlightened village. The members of the Party spread the idea of revolution which included women's liberation. They tried to stop men wearing plaits and women's feet binding. They went to every house and checked and forced the girls whose feet had been bound to remove the strips of cloth. Before they came in the house, my grandmother unbound my feet and my sisters' feet, but once the people left the house, my grandmother rebound our feet again. When the feet were unbound, my sisters and I cried, because of the pain which was caused by the unbinding. But when my grandmother rebound our feet, it would be more painful and we cried again. My sisters and I endured the pain and gradually unbound our feet. We got rid of the long strips first and wore a pair of very tight cloth socks instead. Gradually the feet started to grow again. When I married in 1942, my feet had already become jie fang jiao (liberated feet). I used to watch my feet carefully. They are much smaller than average. I am 1.7 metres tall but my feet are only 22 centimetres long. The big toe seems normal, but the rest of the toes are very flat and folded down under the sole of the foot. There are some small scars between the instep and the toes. The scars were made when my feet were first bound, the bone of the toes were broken and became inflamed, so the scars remained until now. The pain has gone a long time ago. I now live in Beijing and enjoy helping to look after my grandchildren and decorating my house with beautiful flowers. Mrs Sun Mei Ting, 79, Beijing (Story told by Mrs Sun Mei Ting and translated by her daughter Ms Li Chao Huang) In Zhong Shan, China, they used long bandages of cotton cloth for binding women's feet. Women couldn't walk but hobble. Mavis Yen Uncle Hong's mother had bound feet. I met her when she first came to Australia from mainland China when my father had his restaurant in Surry Hills. She was a thin woman, always had her feet bound and couldn't walk by herself. I used to support her to walk up the street from Elizabeth Street to Reservoir Street. Evelyn Yin-Lo, 77 I can remember her feet were very deformed, very painful with callouses. She always wore cotton padding and had difficulty walking. Her parents had to buy her children's shoes. Roma Leong-See (talking about her mother
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