Your laying on a piece of foam and fiberglass 9 feet long and 24 inches wide, you paddle out into the waves, diving under them as they break over you. melding you to them, they accept you, and you get through to where the waves are just forming, and they are nothing more then bumps in the water. You sit up on your board its like sitting on the water itself, the ocean undulates under you, lovely speaking to you with motion, your body becomes one with her, you close your eyes, and you can feel her breath on your face, hear her heartbeat in your ears. her words, are mere pictures in your mind, until your not sure who is riding who, then she says here I am come into me, so you turn and begin to paddle, then you feel her cresendo building, your speed picks up, her body rises up to meet yours, she lifts you up with the force of her passion, you nothing ahead of you as you push yourself to your feet. now your standing at the top of her mountains crest sailing towards the beach on nothing, your feel the drop as you begin to get ahead of her, it feels like your falling, then your board finds a footing and your suddenly being chased by a mountain of water moving 40 miles an hour she looks at you as if she were a jilted lover warning you to respect her or pay the price. so your turn back into her, and she wraps around you in greeting, she contracts all around you, then suddenly you see the light, and push down on the front of your board for more speed, pushing through and pop out of the wall of water that has just turned from serene lover to a wicked boiling mass of white water as if she were to say, had you misstepped I would have crushed you, then you ride along her unbroken lines until there is no more power left in her thrusts, and turn back out towards the lineup falling to your board you begin to paddle to see if she will accept you for yet another ride.
